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By Katie Wilson

Chicken and chips is a simple dish, yet when it’s done well, it’s one of the best in our opinion. Add to that one of the most glamorous new restaurants in London in an enviable location in Soho’s Golden Square – but without a super high price tag – and you’re onto a winner.

The restaurant we’re talking about is Bébé Bob, the offspring of Bob Bob ‘press for champagne’ button Ricard and Bob Bob Ricard City in Leadenhall’s ‘cheesegrater’ skyscraper building.

Opposite from the original Bob Bob, you’ll still get champagne and caviar at Bébé Bob, though there’s no button unfortunately. But in its place is a beautiful restaurant inspired by the Golden Age.

Bébé Bob restaurant review

The red room at Bébé Bob restaurant Soho
Credit: Bébé Bob
The blue room at Bébé Bob restaurant Soho
Credit: Bébé Bob

Split into a bar, blue room and red room (the latter being our favourite and where we were seated), Bébé Bob exudes Hollywood glamour. The red room in particular reminded us of being in a jazz bar with Art Deco inspired artwork at the centrepiece and matching booth seating and lamps on every table.

Even at 7pm on a Wednesday there was a vibe about the place, with a famous musician on one table, a couple on a date on another and a group of friends catching up for a glam, yet casual dinner amongst the clientele. 

In a move we haven’t seen in a restaurant before, Bébé Bob is exclusively meant for intimate dining and no more than four diners are allowed at a table. Their website states: ‘Larger groups, alas, cannot be accommodated.’

Caviar blinis at Bébé Bob restaurant Soho
Credit: Bébé Bob
Chicken at Bébé Bob restaurant Soho
Credit: Bébé Bob

When it comes to the food, this is definitely a place for meat eaters. Russian restaurateur owner Leonid Shutov says: ‘Any main course the customer wants as long as it is chicken or chicken.’

The menu is concise, but exactly what it says on the tin. There are only two mains to choose from, both being rotisserie chicken and for two to share. Vendée chicken from the Pays de la Loire region (£19pp, available as a half portion) or Landais chicken from Gascony (£39pp).

Both are cooked to order and served with a chicken jus. Side add-ons include French fries, truffle fries, roast potatoes, green salad, sautéed kale, roasted carrots and parsnips and truffled cauliflower cheese (from £5 to £9). While it’s chicken and chips, it still feels decadent eating it at Bébé Bob.

Bar stools and colourful bar area at Bébé Bob restaurant Soho
Credit: Bébé Bob

Starters are just as fancy and come in the form of a huge prawn cocktail with cognac-infused Mary Rose sauce (£13), Baked Saint-Marcellin cheese with truffle honey £13) and shoulder of black Iberian pig (£22).

While desserts (ooh the desserts!) have the biggest choice of all. Think Boozy Chocolate Truffles (£6), Paris-Brest chocolate choux pastry with praline cream, caramelised hazelnuts and roasted almonds (£8), Chocolate Brownie or Tarte Tatin with Calvados Ice Cream (both £10) or go straight for a lemon infused vodka shot served at -18C (£6), another Bob Bob speciality.

Caviar lovers can get their fix from £39 for servings of creme fraiche blinis. Try all three caviar offerings from a £49pp taster menu. Bob Bob are also revered for their affordable fine wine and champagnes by the glass, with prices ranging from £7 to £21. They even do a daily Express Lunch menu from 12.30 to 3.30pm from just £12 for their version of chicken nuggets and chips and £19 for half a chicken and fries.

If you’re looking for a beautiful dining room  in central London with impeccable service and staff and top notch food at an affordable price, book a table at Bébé Bob.

Best for: Glam but affordable dining in central London, date nights, catching up with friends

Bébé Bob is at 37 Golden Square, Soho, London W1F 9LB and is open 12.30 to 3.30 and 5.30 to 11.30 Tuesday to Saturday. Note it is closed Sundays and Mondays

Starters are priced from £8 and mains start from £12 with rotisserie chicken for two starting from £19 per person

Wine starts at £7 per glass and champagne and crémant (recommended) starts from £10 a glass 

Book a table at Bébé Bob here

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